Friday, September 08, 2006

着物あれこれ:袷 Kimono (3) Awase


今度は袷(裏つき)の着物がどうなっているのか、を見ます。またもや古着で、上は小紋です。ピンクの部分が裾回しですが、八掛とも言います。広辞苑によると「見頃の裾に4布、おくみに2布、襟先に2布、合わせて八つに裁って用いるから」だそうです。知りませんでした。勉強になりますね。でも襟先ではなく、袖先に使っているように見えるのですが、わかる方、教えて下さい。
裾と袖口にちらっと見えるこの無地の色を何にするかで、着物の印象が変わります。日本人の配色のセンスの見せ所の一つでしょう。下の銘仙ですが、柄にはまったくないウグイス色を合わせてあるのが、私には「ムム」という感じでした。






These kimonos are called AWASE, meaning is "lined" or "double".(Last kimono without liner is HITOE, meaning "single".) Again both are old used ones. The pink flowery patterned kimono is KOMON, which is rather dressy. You might compare with your afternoon dress. The other one of last photo is MEISEN, very casual one.
You can see how it is lined from the photos. Eight colored rectangle pieces are used. Six for bottom and two for sleeve mouth.
And you can see how this color choice is important from the last two photos. This color would be very effective like a seam stitch for CQ.
I was so impressed by the warbler color used for MEISEN, because it's the color beyond my imagination from that kimono fabric.

4 comments:

Maureen said...

Hideko san
First let me thank you for your kind comments on CQCrazy about my Haiku ATC.I tried composing my own haiku,but preferred "the masters".
I also must thank you for sharing history and photos of some kimono on your blog.
A friend who lived in Japan for three years gave me some kimono and a haori to cut up for CQ,but I cannot let myself do this and often wonder what stories they could tell.

hideko said...

Maureen,
I am very glad to hear you enjoy my blog. I understand your feeling because even to me it's sometimes hard to undo these old kimonos though I bought them with very cheap prices as materials.

Bear said...

Oh Hideko
these are even more beautiful as we go through the photos. The pink followery one is beautiful- I can only imagine how the entire dressing with the many layers would take. the last one is silver would this one go over the top of the pink flowery one?? and you say "warbler colour"- do you mean sings there or is there another meaning to this??Maybe the "warbler" colour means something totally different to the way I have taken it hope you can explain this to me!
love n hugs bear xoxoxo

sakuo said...

鈴木真砂女の俳画を描いています。

夫運なき秋袷着たりけり
luck with husbands
is something that eludes me---
autumn kimono

この秋袷の絵柄を探して、ここへ来ました。

有難うございました。参考になりました。

sakuo