Friday, September 15, 2006

着物あれこれ:襦袢 Kimono (4) Juban



襦袢(じゅばん)という言葉はポルトガル語からきているそうです。ということは16世紀でしょうけれど、それ以前は襦袢はなかったのでしょうか?呼び方が違ったということでしょうか?服飾史について調べるべきかもしれませんが、そこまでは踏み込まないことにします。
いずれにしても普通、私たちは着物の下に、半襟のついた襦袢を着ます。襦袢に使う布も柔らかで柄も美しく、クレージーキルトには大変重宝します。



We wear a underdressing kimono, JUBAN. Juban is always full length while kimono is about 20~30cm longer than actual full length, as it would be folded up at the waist when we wearing. A white overcollar is always used to cover the juban neckline. So we can change it when soiled. Mostly very fine and soft silk fabrics are used for juban. Therefore you would love these fabrics for CQing too. You can see I used one of these juban fabrics for my jewelry bags to swap.

7 comments:

Ulla said...

Really lovely fabrics and the small jewellery bags.
I follow your story of kimonos and I feel the models are simple but the fabric is the thing that makes the beauty.And of course the one who have it and the "decorations" too
Have a nice weekend
Ulla in the north of Sweden

Lorenza said...

The jewellery bags are so nice and the fabric is beautiful, Japanese fabric is wonderful, two years ago in Den Haag (The Netherlands)and in Val d' Argent (France) I saw wonderful exhibitions of Japanes quilt:the fabrics are always so special and the sewing is more than perfect.
Thank you for letting us know about kimonos, I like to visit your blog.
Lorenza

Maureen said...

Hideko
does the Juban have sleeves like the outer kimono..are they same size,or shorter?
And are they cotton for summer and silk for Winter,or always silk?
Next month I visit a quilt show in Brisbane which features a display of Japanese made quilts,I am so looking forward to it,having heard how wonderful the quilts are.
MaureenC

hideko said...

Under the juban we wear cotton underwears in separated top and bottom style. The bottom is just like a rolling skirt, which is sometimes colored or patterned. We have a lined and warmer underwear for winter. We have a casual wool musline juban, too. But it is not worn formally.
We have our own kimono size. Therefore the length of the sleeve of kimono and juban is always the same, though juban is sewn more simply. For example the mouth of the sleeve is just row edge of the fabric. If you inherit a kimono from someone you should reform it into your own size. Only dress length and width is flexible if the size difference is not so big, because we can adjust with lapping and folding up when wearing.
I think when we buy a new kimono, most woman buy kimono and juban (and also obi with its accessories)together to coordinate. Because we don't have as enough as many to coordinate each other today.

pat winter said...

Hideko, your liitle CQ bags are beautiful.

hideko said...

Thank you very much for your kind words, Pat.

Bear said...

hello Hideko
I am having a wonderful afternoon going through looking at your Kimono blogs etc. The Juban collar does it have a way of being removed if soiled (dirty)ie is it detachable the remainder of the Juban wouldn't be soiled would it?? the fabrics are so beautiful Hideko - Oh they are so very very beautiful! They have what I call a gentle "feel" to them the patterns the fabric go to make it so very feminine.
You have made some very beautiful jewellery pouches as well and yes I saw where you used some of this fabric
love n hugs bear xoxoxoxo